Mahadev Temple-Itagi,Koppal

On my way from Koppal to Gadag,I was discussing with one of the locales regarding any historical temples in the vicinity and he informed me that there 2 temples near Yelburga. First I visited temple in Kukanur which I will be writing in my next blog. I was not very sure about the quality of the 2nd temple I was willing to visit and with hesitation thought of going to Itagi.I reached Itagi and Mahadev temple.Let me tell you this is one of the greatest temples in terms of architecture in line with Belur and Halebidu !! The Hindu newspaper has written a beautiful article on this temple in 2002 informing Govt about the neglect and attention required but Govt has not yet woken up.

The 12th Century Mahadeva Temple at Itagi in Koppal District with splendid sculptures is said to be one of the finest examples in the country in respect of magnificence and decorative details.The exquisitely carved walls and pillars of the temple are considered the finest examples of Chalukyan architecture. The temple has a special place on the tourist map of Karnataka. The monument and sculptures that adorn the walls of the temple have a rich architectural value.Though the temple is of historical and architectural importance, the authorities have failed in showcasing it to attract tourists. 

Not many know about the temple though it is in the vicinity of Hampi, the capital city of Vijayanagar Empire and now preserved as a world heritage site. The Mahadeva Temple, which has a history that is older than Hampi, is at Itagi, 22 km. from Yelburga town and 15 km. from Koppal town.Though the temple is 65 km. from Hampi, none of the tourists who come to Hampi, visit it.

One can have a glimpse of the high-towered Mahadeva Temple and a cluster of small temples around it while travelling on Koppal-Yelburga Road. The main temple has a Shivalinga, and people of Itagi and nearby villages have been offering pujas to it since its inception. It takes a few hours to watch the remnants of the temple and the architectural skill that glitter in daylight.

The exquisitely carved monuments, towers, pillars, and walls of the temple throw light on Chalukyan culture. A well-preserved inscription in medieval Kannada on a huge stone adjacent to the temple describes it as "Emperor of Temples" of the Chalukyan period built in 1112 A.D. by Mahadeva, a dandanayaka (army general) of King Vikramaditya VI. The inscription describes the style of rule of Chalukyan kings and details on the construction of the temple.

Towards the north of the Shivalinga, there are five temples, of which two are dedicated to Murthinarayana and Chandraleshwari, parents of Mahadeva. There are 13 temples with Shivalingas around the main temple.

The east-faced main temple comprises a shrine with an antechamber, a closed hall with porches on either side of it towards north and south, and openings on either side with pillared halls. The temple roof is supported by 68 carved pillars. Of them, 26 are on the floor and the rest on the stone bench surrounding the hall and carrying the sloping eaves.

The carved columns are symmetrically arranged. The slabs on the central part of the ceiling have "Makaras" which spring from the jaws of "Kirtimuka" masks.The walls of the inner hall are adorned with rich sculptures. The pentagon-shaped sanctum sanctorum and its outer walls have beautiful carvings. The 15-foot high main tower of the temple has carvings and projecting cornices.

The Mahadeva Temple is also known for its erotic sculptures. The temple has a "puskarani (teertha)" on its front side, which is still used by the villagers. An open well with steps behind the temple has dried up and weeds and shrubs have grown on it.

The temple and its surroundings have been neglected for the past few centuries. The sculptures around the temple are in a shambles. Though the Archaeological Survey of India has declared the temple complex a "protected monument", it has done nothing to preserve and develop it as a tourist spot.

Mallikarjun Temple-Basaralu,Mandya

During my routine visit of Mandya district for supervision and on my way to Nagamanagala I could see a beautiful temple next to the road on the outskirts of Basaralu which stood test of the times.My colleagues told me that it is a Hoysala temple !  

Basaralu is a small place 24 kms from Mandya and it is famous for the Mallikarjun temple. This is another beautiful and significant contributions from Hoysalas.A record of Hoysala Narasimha-II, dated 1234 A.D. refers to the grant given to the service of the god Mallikarjuna by a certain Harihara Dandanayaka, after causing the construction of the temple for the deity in the name of his father Mallikarjuna and a tank in the name of his mother Gujjavve at his birth place Basaralu.

The Mallikarjuna temple facing east located at the flank of the tank called “Gujjavve Kere” situated in the boundary of the village on the road to Nagamangala is a small temple but a significant structure among the Hoysala temples in respect of sculptures. It resembles the Trikuta temple of god Bucheshwara at Koravangala in Hasan Taluk. This temple with polyangled basement is on a three feet high platform. It has a main garbhagriha, antarala as well as two separate garbhagriha on either sides of the navaranga facing each other. To the east of the navaranga is a rectangular four ankana long mukhamantapa with perforated windows on its wall. Significant structures of small miniature temples with superstructures on either side edges of the Platform along with elephants, attract one’s attention while entering the temple through the north and south entrance.

There are seven varieties of pillars in this temple made of soapstones. An universe of Gods being carved attractively on the walls. The walls seem like the great hill (Meru giri) full of sculptures depicting Puranic stories and episodes of Ramayana- Mahabharata and Bhagavatha. A record dated 1234 A.D. describes this temple as one with varieties of sculptures starting from bottom up to the Kalasa (Pinnacle) in the superstructure dispensing happiness through its panels of the episodes from Bharatha, creating such illusions that it stands like the offshoot of Merugiri.

The base of the temple has pattikas in the ascending order, of Elephants,Horse riders, Hoysala symbol, sculptures of Puranic episodes, crocodiles and swans. Sculptures of couples and other several social scenes behind the partly damaged Kakshasana in the eastern section of the navaranga and its mukhamantapa, depict naturally the contemporary society. Among them the fight between Vali-Sugreeva in Ramayana, Ravana lifting the Kailasa mountain,the destruction of fish machine matsya yantra in Mahabharata, Kiratarjuna fight, the Chakravyuha, Krishnaleela scene from the Bhagavatha, Govardhanadhari Krishna (Krishna holding the Govardhana hill) are beautifully rendered.

The first layer between the two layers in the walls on the basement is decorated with sculptures of Gods and Goddesses. The layer above this has small superstructures and decorated pillars. The Valabhi and entamblachers are full of small decorations giving the onlooker a feeling of fulfillment. On the walls one can see sculptures of Samudra Manthana (churning of the sea), Shanmukha, Kalinga mardana (killing of the serpent Kalinga), Keshava, Shiva riding on Nandi, Ugranarasimha (in sthanaka style), Hayagreeva (the god with a horse head), dancing Lakshminarasimha, Yoganarasimha, Abhayanarasimha,Lakshminarayana, Sun god, Shiva wearing the elephants’ skin, Harihara, Vishnu, Vamana, Bali Chakravarthi, Tripurantaka Shiva, Brahma-Saraswathi, Umamaheshwara, Ganapa, Durgi with 16 arms, Nataraja, Bhairava, Vishnu riding on Garuda, Rati-Manmatha, Devi and so on. In addition, Parrot belle, maid servants holding fans are also seen.

The dravidian superstructure on the garbhagrha is decorated with varieties of small sculptures. The vestibule (sukanasi) has the symbol of Hoysalas, Sala killing a lion. One can enter the temple area only through the entrance of the door corridor of the southern prakara and the corridor has an elevated basement and high pillars. There is a Bhairava sculpture in the garbhagriha of the Chandikeshwara temple in the northeast corner of the temple complex. 

The temple has a beautiful Dravidian shikhara on its main garbhagriha, which houses a Balahari Shivalinga and beautiful lotus on its ceiling and the door frame has five band decorations. The lintel is simple with three superstructures along with lion also has Shaiva doorkeepers on either side. The doorframe of the antarala has attractive decorations of five superstructures, perforated windows and shaiva doorkeepers. Four pillars in the middle of the navaranga, carved with the help of lathe, has lotus and capitals but the central Bhuvaneshavri ceiling is missing. The ceilings of the other ankanas and the beams have attractive lotus decorations.

The garbhagriha in the navaranga houses a four and half feet tall, Naga-Nagini sculpture (serpants) and a beautiful Sun God sculpture. It seems that on the pedestal of the present serpent sculpture, originally there was a Vishnu sculpture. The doorframes of the other garbhagrihas have decorations in five bands and Vaishnava doorkeepers.The Nandi sculpture in front of the navaranga is also beautiful. Four devakoshtas here almost look like small temples with beautiful Dravidian superstructures and sculptures of Sharada (Saraswathi), Ganapthi, Mahisha Mardini and Saptamatrika pannels. On the lintel of the doorframe of the entrance to the navaranga is a sculpture of Tandaveshwara. The doorframe has Shaiva doorkeepers and perforated windows. 

The perforated windows on the wall of the eastern part of the navaranga as well as the mukhamantapa, provide ventilation to the structure. The Kakshasanas to the east of the navaranga and the mukhamantapa show that originally it has an open navaranga, ardhamantapa and Nandi mantapa assembled into one unit with the help of perforated window walls. Among the Vaishnava door keeper sculptures in the Mukhamantapa of the North-South entrance of the temple, one is missing. The tall and huge Nandi sculpture, as well as doorkeepers in the Mukhamantapa is excellent.